Swiss Cheese

After moving from one place to another for three consecutives days I'd planned a stay for 2 nights so we could recharge and have more time to explore. We were headed to a small village called Diemtigen in the Bernese Oberland. Our temporary home was an apartment on the first floor of a traditional swiss chalet. The drive to Diemtigen wasn't a long one by the standards of previous days so we had time to spent a few hours exploring the pretty city of Thun. 

We arrived in Thun at lunchtime and had a quick bite to eat in the Co-op supermarket/department store. We've tried a Co-op before and their restaurants are actually pretty good for a reasonably cheap (by Swiss standards) lunch. Fortified we set off to explore the old town. The central street has raised pavements (a bit like Chester) and has a range of shops and cafes housed in the old buildings. Sitting on top of the hill is the castle - straight out of a fairy tale and the river flows through the city, splitting into several channels, crossed by wooden covered bridges. 

Thun

The Main Street, Thun

Mühleschleuse, one of the covered bridges over the Aare

After strolling along the banks of the Aare we returned at the opposite end of the Mühleschleuse bridge to find an intrepid surfer using the surf from the sluice gates to maintain a position in the middle of the river. He had throw his surf board into the river, dived in after it, swam to the centre and hauled himself on board and then surfed in the very fast flowing water coming from under the bridge. We stood and watched for his impressive show of stamina and athleticism before leaving the river and wandering through the middle of a busy open air market, buying a punnet of strawberries to give ourselves some energy.

On the spur of the moment and being feeling sufficiently energetic we headed up some steep steps to the upper part of town and arrived at the top, hot and breathless after the exertion of the climb We popped out right by the castle but thought we would skip going inside as time was pressing. Instead we took a gentler descent back down hill, stopping to look inside the Scherzligen Reformed Church. The church has a plain white exterior and an equally simple interior but it did have some wall paintings dating back to the 13th century. As we descended we found a perfect spot to see the rooftops of the town, the lake (Thunsee) and the mountains beyond - which was where we were headed next.

View of Thun and the mountains beyond

Thun had charmed but it was time to leave and drive the short distance to Diemtigen. After leaving the main road running through the valley, a less busy winding road climbs steadily at first and then more steeply, up to the village. Our hosts were lovely and the apartment on the first floor had stunning views across the valley. Lush green pastures gave way to forest and the snowed topped mountains. 

The view from our apartment in Diemtigen

We could hear the gentle clanking of cow bells in the pasture behind the village. As we'd eaten some rather stodgy food on our travels (so far) we were craving something a bit healthier. In the supermarket in Thun we had purchased salad ingredients and some swiss cheeses including a local one from the Thun region. Switzerland is sometimes overlooked as a cheese making nation but they make some delicious cheeses...and I'm a big cheese lover. We ate a simple supper of cheeses and salad before settling down to read and plan our excursion for the next day.

So far the weather on our travels had been warm and generally sunny but the next day brought a change. We woke to overcast skies and the promise of rain. Undaunted we made up a picnic lunch using the left over salad ingredients and headed off to the Lauterbrunnen valley. This valley is surrounded by steep sided rock faces, and towering above these some of Switzerland's highest mountains. The valley has over 300 waterfalls cascading from the peaks above of which the most impressive is the Staubbach Falls which are Switzerlands highest free falling waterfall with a drop of 297 meters. Before visiting the waterfall we took a train and then a cable car to the car free village of Murren which is at an altitude of 1638 meters. The village was quiet and charming even though the wearher was a little gray. In the 1960's things may have been a bit more lively for a short time. The Bond film 'On Her Majesty’s Secret Service' was filmed here. What Murren really offers is ample opportunity to get high into the mountains with hiking trails leading off into the high peaks. Across the valley are three giants of the alps, Jungfrau, Mönch and perhaps most famous of all the Eiger. 

Murren

Jungfrau on the left towering above the Lauterbrunnen valley

We walked around the village, stopped for a coffee in a sports clothing shop that doubled up as a cafe and headed part of the way along a hiking trail. Eventually we decided to head back down to the valley floor. When we arrived in Lauterbrunnen it had been quiet but now it was bustling with visitors, a convoy of leather clad bikers road through and there was a hubbub of different languages. It was such a contrast from the peace of Murren above. Walking to the Staubbach Falls was easy - a simple stroll from one end of the village to the other but then there was a stiff climb on steps and then slippery rock through tunnels only wide enough for 2 people to squeeze past each other. It took a while to get to the end - a very tiny viewing platform right behind the waterfall. The noise was deafening.

Part way up the route to the falls

Behind the Staubbach Falls

When travelling for weeks at a time we've learnt to allow time for the practicalities - which in this case was finding a launderette to deal with the best part of a weeks clothes. A short drive to Interlaken found us loading up a machine and then leaving it to do its stuff whilst we had a quick stroll around the town. We didn't find Interlaken a particularly interesting place - it acts as a base from which to explore the area rather than being attractive as a destination in itself. Whilst waiting for the spin cycle to complete we watched tandem paragliders coming into land on a large green area opposite the Grand Hotel.

Then loading up the dryer we went off for a hot drink before taking our freshly clean and dry clothes back to our appartment in Diemtigen. Travelling isn't always about excitement!

We checked out of our apartment the following morning, sad to leave such a lovely area, but our route was taking us east for an overnight stay in a hotel in a town called Buchs. On the way we stopped at a place that is something of a Swiss institution. Located in the rural village of Hofstetten bei Brienz is the Trauffer wooden toy factory. Since 1938 the company has been carving and hand painting wooden animals - their iconic piece being a red spotted cow. As well as the actual factory the company now has a 'visitor experience' a hotel and a coffee shop. 

Traffeur cows...a whole herd!

It was an interesting place for a short stop. Moving on we headed to the lakeside city of Lucerne. As we arrived the heavens well and truly opened and I thought we'd get thoroughly soaked but after five minutes the rain eased and we were able to properly explore the old town. Like Thun, Lucerne has a rich history and its old buildings are elaborately decorated. It has two old wooden covered bridges, an impressive Jesuit church and above the old town a high wall interspersed with watch towers.

The KappellBrucke, Lucerne

Detail in the Kapellbrücke

Interior of the Jesuit Church

After exploring the old town we started the climb up to the defensive wall that was built to protect the city. The Musegg Wall was built around 1400 and has nine towers. We climbed one -  the Männli Tower (little man tower) which is 33 meters high and topped with a large iron figure. Ascending the 120 steps was quite a work out but the effort was rewarded with a spectacular view.

Atop the Mannli Tower

Lucerne

Part of the Musegg Wall

Leaving Lucerne we headed towards the small town of Buchs. We had a room booked in the Landgashof Werdenberg - which describes itself as a country inn. It was a very strange and quirky place. The staff were friendly and we were shown to our room in an adjoining building which was a motel. Our room was massive, with a work desk, a seperate seating area with a couch, two arm chairs and a glass coffee table with a base of an eagle. The walls were painted white with no other decoration. In a meeting room along the corridor were 3 pieces of beautiful antique furniture, in the most incongruous setting. 

The rather unusual Landgasthof Werdenberg

After checking in we took a walk around the area. Looming over the town is Werdenberg castle and below this a small lake.

Werdenberg Castle

Other than this Buchs is quite a non-descript place, so we headed back to the hotel to eat in their equally quirky restaurant which looked though it had last been decorated in the 1980s when stencilling borders was all the rage in interior design. The extensive menu had lots of traditional fare - Mrs B opted for veal schnitzel, I had some homemade meatloaf. The portions were generous and surprisingly very well cooked. 

The beds were also very comfortable, we had a good nights sleep and a simple but adequate breakfast the following morning. As we checked out I noticed a few locals had dropped in for a breakfast beer! It was a very strange but memorable stay and very different from the corporate blandness so often found in hotels.

The final few days our our time in Switzerland would see us travel through the Graubeden region close to the Italian border - but first we had another country to visit.