Swiss Cheese

After moving from one place to another for three consecutives days I'd planned a stay for 2 nights so we could recharge and have more time to explore. We were headed to a small village called Diemtigen in the Bernese Oberland. Our temporary home was an apartment on the first floor of a traditional swiss chalet. The drive to Diemtigen wasn't a long one by the standards of previous days so we had time to spent a few hours exploring the pretty city of Thun. 

We arrived in Thun at lunchtime and had a quick bite to eat in the Co-op supermarket/department store. We've tried a Co-op before and their restaurants are actually pretty good for a reasonably cheap (by Swiss standards) lunch. Fortified we set off to explore the old town. The central street has raised pavements (a bit like Chester) and has a range of shops and cafes housed in the old buildings. Sitting on top of the hill is the castle - straight out of a fairy tale and the river flows through the city, splitting into several channels, crossed by wooden covered bridges. 

Thun

The Main Street, Thun

Mühleschleuse, one of the covered bridges over the Aare

After strolling along the banks of the Aare we returned at the opposite end of the Mühleschleuse bridge to find an intrepid surfer using the surf from the sluice gates to maintain a position in the middle of the river. He had throw his surf board into the river, dived in after it, swam to the centre and hauled himself on board and then surfed in the very fast flowing water coming from under the bridge. We stood and watched for his impressive show of stamina and athleticism before leaving the river and wandering through the middle of a busy open air market, buying a punnet of strawberries to give ourselves some energy.

On the spur of the moment and being feeling sufficiently energetic we headed up some steep steps to the upper part of town and arrived at the top, hot and breathless after the exertion of the climb We popped out right by the castle but thought we would skip going inside as time was pressing. Instead we took a gentler descent back down hill, stopping to look inside the Scherzligen Reformed Church. The church has a plain white exterior and an equally simple interior but it did have some wall paintings dating back to the 13th century. As we descended we found a perfect spot to see the rooftops of the town, the lake (Thunsee) and the mountains beyond - which was where we were headed next.

View of Thun and the mountains beyond

Thun had charmed but it was time to leave and drive the short distance to Diemtigen. After leaving the main road running through the valley, a less busy winding road climbs steadily at first and then more steeply, up to the village. Our hosts were lovely and the apartment on the first floor had stunning views across the valley. Lush green pastures gave way to forest and the snowed topped mountains. 

The view from our apartment in Diemtigen

We could hear the gentle clanking of cow bells in the pasture behind the village. As we'd eaten some rather stodgy food on our travels (so far) we were craving something a bit healthier. In the supermarket in Thun we had purchased salad ingredients and some swiss cheeses including a local one from the Thun region. Switzerland is sometimes overlooked as a cheese making nation but they make some delicious cheeses...and I'm a big cheese lover. We ate a simple supper of cheeses and salad before settling down to read and plan our excursion for the next day.

So far the weather on our travels had been warm and generally sunny but the next day brought a change. We woke to overcast skies and the promise of rain. Undaunted we made up a picnic lunch using the left over salad ingredients and headed off to the Lauterbrunnen valley. This valley is surrounded by steep sided rock faces, and towering above these some of Switzerland's highest mountains. The valley has over 300 waterfalls cascading from the peaks above of which the most impressive is the Staubbach Falls which are Switzerlands highest free falling waterfall with a drop of 297 meters. Before visiting the waterfall we took a train and then a cable car to the car free village of Murren which is at an altitude of 1638 meters. The village was quiet and charming even though the wearher was a little gray. In the 1960's things may have been a bit more lively for a short time. The Bond film 'On Her Majesty’s Secret Service' was filmed here. What Murren really offers is ample opportunity to get high into the mountains with hiking trails leading off into the high peaks. Across the valley are three giants of the alps, Jungfrau, Mönch and perhaps most famous of all the Eiger. 

Murren

Jungfrau on the left towering above the Lauterbrunnen valley

We walked around the village, stopped for a coffee in a sports clothing shop that doubled up as a cafe and headed part of the way along a hiking trail. Eventually we decided to head back down to the valley floor. When we arrived in Lauterbrunnen it had been quiet but now it was bustling with visitors, a convoy of leather clad bikers road through and there was a hubbub of different languages. It was such a contrast from the peace of Murren above. Walking to the Staubbach Falls was easy - a simple stroll from one end of the village to the other but then there was a stiff climb on steps and then slippery rock through tunnels only wide enough for 2 people to squeeze past each other. It took a while to get to the end - a very tiny viewing platform right behind the waterfall. The noise was deafening.

Part way up the route to the falls

Behind the Staubbach Falls

When travelling for weeks at a time we've learnt to allow time for the practicalities - which in this case was finding a launderette to deal with the best part of a weeks clothes. A short drive to Interlaken found us loading up a machine and then leaving it to do its stuff whilst we had a quick stroll around the town. We didn't find Interlaken a particularly interesting place - it acts as a base from which to explore the area rather than being attractive as a destination in itself. Whilst waiting for the spin cycle to complete we watched tandem paragliders coming into land on a large green area opposite the Grand Hotel.

Then loading up the dryer we went off for a hot drink before taking our freshly clean and dry clothes back to our appartment in Diemtigen. Travelling isn't always about excitement!

We checked out of our apartment the following morning, sad to leave such a lovely area, but our route was taking us east for an overnight stay in a hotel in a town called Buchs. On the way we stopped at a place that is something of a Swiss institution. Located in the rural village of Hofstetten bei Brienz is the Trauffer wooden toy factory. Since 1938 the company has been carving and hand painting wooden animals - their iconic piece being a red spotted cow. As well as the actual factory the company now has a 'visitor experience' a hotel and a coffee shop. 

Traffeur cows...a whole herd!

It was an interesting place for a short stop. Moving on we headed to the lakeside city of Lucerne. As we arrived the heavens well and truly opened and I thought we'd get thoroughly soaked but after five minutes the rain eased and we were able to properly explore the old town. Like Thun, Lucerne has a rich history and its old buildings are elaborately decorated. It has two old wooden covered bridges, an impressive Jesuit church and above the old town a high wall interspersed with watch towers.

The KappellBrucke, Lucerne

Detail in the Kapellbrücke

Interior of the Jesuit Church

After exploring the old town we started the climb up to the defensive wall that was built to protect the city. The Musegg Wall was built around 1400 and has nine towers. We climbed one -  the Männli Tower (little man tower) which is 33 meters high and topped with a large iron figure. Ascending the 120 steps was quite a work out but the effort was rewarded with a spectacular view.

Atop the Mannli Tower

Lucerne

Part of the Musegg Wall

Leaving Lucerne we headed towards the small town of Buchs. We had a room booked in the Landgashof Werdenberg - which describes itself as a country inn. It was a very strange and quirky place. The staff were friendly and we were shown to our room in an adjoining building which was a motel. Our room was massive, with a work desk, a seperate seating area with a couch, two arm chairs and a glass coffee table with a base of an eagle. The walls were painted white with no other decoration. In a meeting room along the corridor were 3 pieces of beautiful antique furniture, in the most incongruous setting. 

The rather unusual Landgasthof Werdenberg

After checking in we took a walk around the area. Looming over the town is Werdenberg castle and below this a small lake.

Werdenberg Castle

Other than this Buchs is quite a non-descript place, so we headed back to the hotel to eat in their equally quirky restaurant which looked though it had last been decorated in the 1980s when stencilling borders was all the rage in interior design. The extensive menu had lots of traditional fare - Mrs B opted for veal schnitzel, I had some homemade meatloaf. The portions were generous and surprisingly very well cooked. 

The beds were also very comfortable, we had a good nights sleep and a simple but adequate breakfast the following morning. As we checked out I noticed a few locals had dropped in for a breakfast beer! It was a very strange but memorable stay and very different from the corporate blandness so often found in hotels.

The final few days our our time in Switzerland would see us travel through the Graubeden region close to the Italian border - but first we had another country to visit.

  

Five Countries...in One Day

I normally wait until I've crossed the Channel before visiting a vinyard, but for this trip I started early! Its a long drive to the Channel Tunnel from where we live,so I broke the journey at the Denbies Wine Estate just off the M25, near Dorking. Nestled in the South Downs this vinyard is located in a very picturesque setting. As well as the wine tasting on offer (that I had to forgo for obvious reasons) the site had a farm shops, coffee roasters, EV charging points and, importantly a restaurant serving lunches. After lunch we stretched our legs on a sunny day strolling by the grape vines and taking in the views of Box Hill. 

Grape vines growing at the Denbies Wine Estate, Surrey

Feeling refreshed we carried on along the motorway until we reached our overnight accomodation in Hythe by late afternoon. By the time we arrived the weather had changed and a heavy shower had just passed over as we pulled into the hotel car park. A rainbow gradually faded over the sea and the sun reappeared so after checking in we had a stroll along the sea front to get some fresh air before having dinner in the hotel restaurant.

The next day brought an early start. We left the UK just before 8.00 am and arrived in France 35 minutes later, bang on time. It was a long drive to our first overnight stay and our route took us across the rather featureless landscape of Northern France. After about an hour of driving we crossed the border into Belgium - our third country of the day - and started to head south. I stopped for a break just outside Wavre and recharged the car in a hotel car park whilst we sat inside drinking coffee and Belgian hot chocolate. 

Looking for somewhere to have lunch I spotted a possibility about 8 minutes drive away. The Herges Museum celebrates the creator of Tin Tin and it seemed a potentially interesting place to have something to eat and take a quick tour of the museum. This idea did not work out. I set the satnav to take us there but we failed to find the museum turning into the parking for a primary school. As this clearly wasn't right I pulled out and did a loop around trying to find a parking sign for the museum. We pulled into a multi story car park but this seemed to have spaces reserved for private businesses so we exited searching in vain for somewhere to park. After about 20 minutes we abandoned any hope of executing this plan and headed back to the motorway and found a motorway services - with a food court.

At least from this point on the landscape became a little more interesting as we entered the Ardennes region. Forests, hills and gorges made for a more pleasing backdrop to endless miles of motorway driving. Eventually we crossed the border into country number four - Luxembourg. Driving around Luxembourg city I pulled into another hotel car park to charge up the car and we walked down the street to get some food for breakfast from an organic supermarket. 

After another 20 minutes of driving through countryside of gentle hills and small villages we arrived at our accomodation, located on the outskirts of the village of Echternacherbruck, just over the border in Germany. We had travelled over 330 miles and our final stop made it five countries in one day. 

Our accomodation was a lovely self contained studio, very comfortable, spacious and spotlessly clean. Our host, Louise was English and gave us a lovely welcome. She also offered some helpful advice on places to eat nearby. 

Just across the river from the village of Echternacherbrucke is the small town of Echternach - in Luxembourg. Afrer unpacking we crossed the border again, this time on foot, taking a footbridge across the river Sauer to look for somewhere to have an evening meal. Louise had recommended a little bistrot on the pretty main street and rather than shop around we made straight for it. 

Echternach

One of the regional specialities in this part of the world is Flammenkirche or, in French, Tarte Flambee. This is a pizza adjacent dish, but without a tomato base. It typically has a topping of creamy cheese, hard cheese, lardons and onions all cooked on top of a very thin crispy dough. Its delicious! We both polished off our flammenkirche and following Louise's recommendation crossed the road to an Italian gelatoria. I can strongly recommend the amaretto and pistachio combination. 

A little further along the main street we found the main square and close by the 8th century church and abbey that was establised by an English monk. 

Echternach Church

The main square, Echternach

The River Sauer  and the footbridge that links Luxembourg to Germany

After a quick explore of the town we headed back along the riverside path and crossed the river back into Germany for an early night. Another long drive was ahead of us the next day.

On our second day our route took us along the Moselle Valley (in Germany) before we crossed in Luxembourg again and then France. THe sun was shining and the countryside looked verdant. To break up the journey we decided to have a picnic in Strasbourg. The city is well served by park and ride car parks and we abandoned the car at one of these and caught the tram for a quick ride to the centre. After visiting a boulangerie and getting something to take away for a picnic it was only a short stroll though Petit France down to the river. The historic centre of Strasbourg is full of picture postcard views, a magnificent gothic cathedral and, of course, plenty of souvenir shops. As we have visited before we didn't feel any compulsion to see any particular highlights but just enjoyed wandering through the historic centre, by the river, over the covered bridge and past the cathedral.

Views of Strabourg

The last part of the drive was relatively short. Our accomodation was a room in the centre of the small town of Ribeauvillé in the Alsace region of France. At the centre of the wine growing region the town is surrounded by hills with terraces of grapevines. There are also three ruined castles overlooking the town. The long main street is full of colourful medieval timbered buildings, some of which house the many wineries dotted around the town. It was a very charming place to stroll around. 

One of the recurring themes we noticed adorning buildings was an image of a piper. The original lords of the town were protectors of wandering minstrels in medieval Alsace and to celebrate this there are statues and additions to buildings as well as minstrel themed gifts in the souvenir shops.

A wandering minstrel...

We found a bar/restaurant to eat in - serving hearty Alsatian food - and then walked around the town before settling in for a night of reading, practising Italian and planning the next day's route.

Before leaving Ribeauville we made ourselves breakfast in our room which was handily located 3 minutes walk away from a boulangerie. Some freshly baked croissants, jam and coffee was a simple, frugal but tasty start to the day. And on the way back we watched storks nesting on the top of one of the tallest buildings, a wonderful conclusion to our short visit.

A stork nest in Ribeauvillé

We had now travelled over 750 miles from home but there still was further to travel and another border to cross. Today we were headed out of France and into Switzerland.

She's Electric!

In the words of that great 20th century thinker Hannibal Smith...'I love it when a plan comes together'. 

For the past few months I've been poring over maps, guidebooks and consulting the internet to devise a route for our next adventure. That plan has now come together.

Regular readers will know that in recent years I've taken to discovering Europe by car. My travels have already taken me through many parts of France, Belgium, Luxemborg, Switzerland, Germany, Northern Spain and Austria. One of the countries missing from this list is Italy. I first visited Italy in the 1980's taking a fast hydrofoil across the Adriatic from what was then Yugoslavia for a day trip to Venice. A few years later I did the same thing with Mrs B and out two young daughters. We did all the tourist things - including riding through the canals on a gondola. For a landmark birthday Mrs B took me to Florence for a lovely short break. 

In more recent travels I've crossed the border briefly into Italy - once on Zugspitz, Germany's highest peak where you can cross from one country to another, and most recently on foot during a walk in the French Alps. But all in all I've spent hardly any time in Italy so this year I plan to become much better acquainted.

I've planned a route that will take us across the Channel, through Belgium and Luxembourg before we break our journey in Germany. Then we'll cross the border back into France, and after an overnight stop, travel through Switzerland stopping in various places before I drive over the Alps into Northern Italy. Once in Italy the plan is to explore the Italian Lakes, visit Verona, Bergamo and Mantua. A return journey will be made via the Mont Blanc tunnel through France and passing Geneva (where I hope to visit CERN), taking in the ciy of Nancy before we spend our last few days in Flemish Belgium. It will be another epic road trip in which we should experience some very different cultures and cuisines. 

To prepare for the trip I've not just been consulting guidebooks and maps. I've been flexing the mental muscles - and learning a new language. I joined our local University of the Third Age and became a founder member of a beginners italian group. We meet weekly, working through a text book, watch videos, listen to conversations and support each other in our efforts to become more confident reading and speaking a new language. I've supplemented this with daily lessons on Duolingo so my vocabulary has expanded, although the intricacies of italian grammar are still a challenge. Whilst far from fluent I hope I'll be able to 'get by'.

The second bit of preparation involves my mode of transport. For some years I've wanted to travel as sustainably as possible and reduce the environmental impact of our explorations. As I love to go to out of the way places public transport isn't always viable, but this year I'll be minimising our impact on the environment because the whole trip will be taken in an electric car. 

Late last year I bought a second hand, but still fairly new, EV that has a notional range on a full charge of 300 miles. Its a dream to drive, quite quick - 0-60 in 7.9 seconds and packed with kit to make driving both comfortable and safe. I was reassured that the rapid expansion of EV charging points in the UK and Europe, and the ease of finding them on various apps makes long distance travel perfectly feasible in a EV.. This year we've had trips to the New Forest, South Devon and Anglesey which have all been easy to do as lots of car parks now have EV charging points.  

Journey times between places on long trips are of course a little slower but having a break on a long drive is no hardship and chances are we'll arrive more rested than if I'd hammered down the motorway for hour after hour.

All that's left now is to pack bags with clothes, gadgets, plug adaptors and everything else we might need before setting off. 

Buoni viaggi!